All photos by Nicole Honchariw
Japan in the winter is an unexpected fairyland of surprises
From its soaring, snowy peaks to its serene, turquoise seas, Japan simply cannot be defined; it can only be affirmed with a, "Yes, yes please."
It began with an innocuous hypothetical (resulting from too much time spent with Australians in Indonesia): I mentioned to my dad that I wanted to go skiing in Japan.
At the time of this request, my dad was the only one in my family who'd been to Japan; and skiing, I should add, is what he'd like to die doing. It's no surprise that within months, the planning began.
We planned an ambitious trip: Tokyo, Hakuba Valley, Kyoto, and Osaka, all in just under two weeks.
Highlights: Tokyo
A private food tour with Secret Tours. No one in our family is a big "tour" person, but my brother and I both pitched a walking food tour as a way to see parts of the city we might otherwise gloss over. The constant walking balanced the constant influx of food (and Asahi).
Dinner at Kaikaya (sometimes referred to as "Kaikaya by the Sea") in Shibuya. This small omakase-style spot had the energy of a neighborhood watering hole with the food of a Michelin-star restaurant. The chefs clearly have fun while working, and how could they not, given celebrities like Scarlet Johansen have dined there!
Walking through the trees to Meiji-Jingu Shrine; the natural surroundings felt reminiscent of Golden Gate Park, and the architecture was stunning. Plus: you'll be right off of Harajuku and within a few blocks of Harry's Hedgehog Cafe, where a small fee will grant you playtime with some cute, fuzzy creatures.
And while Harajuku is known for its Lolita-esque clothing and colorful locals, we discovered it's also a great area to find high-end department stores and massive designer shops.
Enjoying first-class seats on the Shinkansen, Japan's bullet train, and soaking in the countryside while sipping champagne, snacking on chocolate, and staying snuggly in slippers.
Highlights: Hakuba Valley
We went to Hakuba for snow, and oye, did we get snow. So much, in fact, that we were only able to ski one day! Unlike domestic resorts like Aspen or Park City, Hakuba is a small valley comprised of a few small areas; especially given the weather, it was difficult to establish any sort of foothold- but we still found a few gems.
Hakuba Champagne Bar & Lounge was a total treat. Tucked away in a beautiful old house and surrounded by light-filled trees, women in Geisha attire served us bubbles, tempura, and sashimi. And in a fun twist of fate, we discovered that the owner and staff had connections to New York City and the hospitality scene there.
The snow monkeys. Technically, the snow monkeys are about two hours away from Hakuba, but the drive is beyond worth it. Fewer things in life have ever delighted me more than seeing the fuzzy creatures soaking in their steamy onsen. Dress warm and wear sturdy, snow-ready shoes- the pathway to the monkey park is long and slippery after storms.
And if you can, stop in Nagano on the way back to Hakuba and visit Zenkoji Temple, a stunning masterpiece of Japanese design.
Hakuba 47 ski resort had epic views and long, coasting runs; at the bottom of the mountain, we dove into the true Japan skiing experience by slurping udon and Asahi beer. Though we only got our one day of skiing, it wasn't one we'll be forgetting anytime soon.
Highlights: Kyoto
Kyoto is a dream. Full stop. It's everything I imagined Japan would be: lush gardens filled with tea houses and koi ponds, gorgeous buildings and temples, and an inescapable sense of history.
What not to miss:
- A visit to the Golden Temple
- An awe-filled stroll through the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
- Shopping in the Teramachi Shopping Arcade, a sprawling, endless array of restaurants, bars, and funky shops. Be sure to go into Little Trip to Heaven, one of the most fun vintage shops I've ever come across
- Kodaiji Temple and its surrounding gardens, teahouses, and bamboo forest
- Department stores like Takashimaya, a massive haven for designers, Japanese beauty products (buy DAMDAM's Nomad Cleanser and thank us later!), food, and more
- A stay at Park Hyatt Kyoto or The Hotel Seiryu Kiyomizu
- And of course, a stroll through the historic Gion "Geisha" District, where you can even rent Geisha outfits to wear for the day
And finally, don't sleep on Osaka
Highlights: Osaka
While I expected Tokyo to be the (urban) highlight of our Japan jaunt, Osaka proved to be the dark horse winner of the entire trip. Easy to get around and brimming with cool neighborhoods, Osaka was my walking-paradise for the few days we were there.
A visit to the Osaka Castle was a perfect way to start our time in Osaka; it's a central feature of the city and harkens back to Samurai times. We soaked in 360 views of the entire city and the surrounding mountains from its top floor.
The vintage shops, particularly high-end resell stores, are unbelievable. I found a vintage Dior crystal logo necklace- very Carrie Bradshaw- at Hedy Osaka, a well-curated shop surrounded by other vintage gems like Lara Vintage.
We spent one night wandering the busy, glittering streets of Namba. My advice? Take in the lights reflecting off the water of the Dotonbori canal, grab an Asahi at a streetside bar, and then have an overwhelmingly indulgent dinner of Japanese beef at Matsusakagyu Yakiniku Namba.
Like in nearby Kyoto, the department stores in Osaka are worth spending a few hours getting lost in. (I had a chunk of Yen left to spend before my flight home and spent most of it on skincare at Daimaru Shinsaibashi in Shinsaibashi, the main shopping district.)
And while it sounds counterintuitive, I loved my solo stroll through the "American" neighborhood, where Lady Liberty towers over casual eateries and obscure shops.
Everyone's tastes and travel styles are different, but one thing is certain: winter in Japan will forever be a good idea. Thanks for reading along with us!
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